Canoe Building


Canoe Life

Polynesian Migrations

The Voyage to Rapa Nui / 1999-2000

Leg 2: Nukuhiva to Mangareva

Photo: Sailing toward Ua Pou, Marquesas Islands

Map of the Voyage to Rapa Nui, June 1999-February 2000 (5 Legs): (1) Hawai'i-Marquesas, (2) Marquesas-Mangareva, (3) Mangareva-Rapa Nui, (4) Rapa Nui-Tahiti, (5) Tahiti-Hawai'i

Map of Marquesas Interisland Sails

Course Strategy: Nukuhiva to Mangareva (Revised August 13, 1999)

Chad's Explanation of the New Course Strategy

Reference Course Line: Nukuhiva to Mangareva

About the Isles of Hiva (Marquesas Islands)

About Pitcairn, Temoe, and Mangareva

Catherine Fuller's Journal / Leg 2

Catherine Fuller's Journal, Nukuhiva to Mangareva The journal entries were published in The Honolulu Advertiser during the voyage.

Reports and Photos: Nukuhiva / July 31-August 2, 1999

Reports: 07/31/99 and 08/02/99


Marquesan Schoolchildren Welcomed the Crew to the Marquesas with a Song (July 26, 1999).

Taiohae Bay from the Heights of Mouake Looking South (July 26, 1999). A kuku (native pigeon) flies across the scene. Hokule'a is anchored near shore on the western side of the bay.

Mona, Moana, and Kaniela Kanikapila (Making Music) at the Nuku a Hoe Canoe Club House, Taiohae.

Kealoha (R), Gary Y., Russell, Gary S., Sean (kneeling), Kaniela and Cat Celebrating Gary S.'s Birthday at the Nuku a Hoe Canoe Club House.

Gary Y. Mona, and Mel Building a Better Toilet.

Gary Yuen Takes It on The Chest from a Tatoo Artist.

Russell, Maka, Aldon, Mona, and Desmon Testing the Kalua Pig. The crew dug an imu and prepared the pig for a pa'ina to thank the community for its support of the crew.

The Pig Before Entering the Imu; the Paddler is from Nuku a Hoe canoe club. The Marquesan pig demi-god Makaiaanui is said to have sacrificed himself for the people during a time of no food. This story of Makaiaanui was told to us on Ua Pou. (See report for 08/04/99.) A text of this legend can be found in "Von den Steinem's Marquesan Myths"--the story of Akaui (pp. 32-35).

Maka Carving a Stone Pestle on the Beach at Taiohae. He presented the pestle as a gift to Nuku a Hoe for hosting the crews of Hokule'a and Kamahele.

Tava Taupu led the crew on a tour of his ancestor Pakoko's tohua (dance plaza) in the hills above Taiohae. Below him is the stream where Pakoko threw down the bodies of slain French Sailors. He was executed by a French firing squad in 1845 for having allegedly ordered the killing. The family in Taiohae still remember his execution with bitterness. When thunder rolls, they believe it is a sign that Pakoko is returning.

Report and Photos: Haka Hau, Ua Pou / August 3, 1999

Report: 08/04/99


Hokule'a Sailing into Ua Pou.

Stone Pillars of Ua Pou. The name of the island means "Pillars" or "Posts," i.e. posts used to put up a house. The central peak, usually clouded, is called Te-Ava.

The Dancers of Ua Pou Greeted Hokule'a at the Dock.

Alex and Elsa, Kamahele Captain and Crew, in Haka Hau, Ua Pou.

Petrano Toti, leader of the dance group of Ua Pou, gave the crew a tour of his home island.

Petrano cutting down some cooking bananas at his family plantation in the hills above Haka Moui, The Valley of the Chiefs. The bananas grow straight up, at the top of the plant. Petrano gave the bananas to the crew.

The large paepae (stone foundation and floor of a traditional Marquesan House) of Te-iki-tai-uao, chief of the Ati Papa tribe of Haka Moui, who secured control of the whole island of Ua Pou. After his death in 1860, the valley was kapu, for the chief was thought to be a god...no one lived there for a century.

Report and Photos: Hane, Ua Huka / August 4, 1999

Report: 08/06/99


Hokule'a and Kamahele Anchored in Hane, Ua Huka.

Kealoha Hoe Assists Protocol Officer Kaniela Akaka with his Kihei.

Cat, Aero, and Tim at the Steering Sweep.

Photos: Tahuata / August 5 & 6, 1999

Sailing for Tahuata, Near Sunset; Ua Pou on the Horizon. The ki'i kane (male god) on the starboard side of Hokule'a.

Vaitahu, Tahuata.

Documentor Nalani Wilson Goes Over the Operation of the Video Camera with Camera Man Hugh Gentry.

"The Best Meal Yet," said crewmember Kealoha Hoe after the crew's visit to Hapatoni, along the coast of Tahuata south of Vaitahu. "It was all from the land and sea--fruits and fish." The food was served on leaves.

The Pu Sound--Kaniela and Kealoha Call Out the People of Hapatoni.

Tava Bids Farewell to the People of Hapatoni.


Report and Photos: Hanavave, Fatu Hiva / August 7, 1999

Report: 08/08/99


Captain/Navigator Chad Baybayan, Sailing for Fatu Hiva.

Hokule'a Beneath the Cliffs of Hanavave, Fatu Hiva.

The Women of Hanavave Preparing Their Dance Ornaments.

Petroglyph, Hanavave, Fatu Hiva.

Vai-Ee waterfall at the Back of Valley of Hanavave: The crew visited this waterfall and some of the brave practiced lele kawa (cliff jumping) from a ledge 40 feet above the pool. They saw a freshwater eel swimming in the pool. (The children who came with us kept shouting, "There's an eel in the pool!") A legend tells of Koee-iti ("small eel"), who lives under this waterfall, which feeds the large clear stream called Uiha that empties into the bay. Various versions of this legend can be found in "Von den Steinen's Marquesan Myths" (1-5).

Tava in a Headdress of Leaves. Tava picked the leaves in the valley of Hanavave, where he found the remains of ancient paepae. The leaves on the back of the Headdress are 'awa.

Hokule'a Anchored in Hanavave Within Swimming Distance from Shore.

The Children of Hanavave Hamming on Hokule'a. Shaka!

Reports and Photos: Atuona, Hiva Oa / August 8-14, 1999

Reports: 08/10/99, 08/12/99, and 08/13/99


Opening Sails for Hiva Oa.

Cat Fuller, Leaving Fatu Hiva.

Squall Sweeping Over the islands of Terihi and Motane as Hokule'a sailed from Fatu Hiva to Hiva Oa.

Arriving in Atuona, Hiva Oa.

Takaii ("Powerful Belt"), the Largest Stone Tiki in French Polynesia, at the Me'ae of Ipona, Puamau, Hiva Oa. (L to R): Robert O'Connor, whose family hosted the crew in Atuona; Bernard Heita'a, the mayor of Puamau; Tava Taupu. Human sacrifices at this me'ae were made to insure the growth of ulu, or breadfruit, the staple of Marquesan diet in traditional times. Periodic droughts during which the breadfuit failed to ripen brought famine to the Islands.

The Stone Used to Prepare Inks for Kakau (Tatoos); Ipona, Puamau. The base was oil of the kukui, which is called lama in the Marquesas where the oily nut was burned for light (cf. Hawaiian "lama": torch, light). Our host Robert O'Connor (right) demonstrates the tatooing technique.

Patrice Kaimuko, kumu of the Marquesan Dance Group Te Pua o Feani, leading the pig dance. He teaches to the youth of Atuona what he learned about Marquesan Dance from his mother.

Raita Gramont (right) and the female dancers of Te Pua o Feani. Raita teaches English and French at the local school and served as translator for the crew while we were in Atunoa. Raita told us a version of the Marquesan creation story, which Te Pua danced at their performance: The god Oatea and goddess Atanua built the islands as their house: Ua Pou was the posts; Nukuhiva the rafters, Hiva Oa the ridge pole; Fatu Hiva, the thatching; Tahuata, the fireplace; Ua Huka, the rubbish pit; Motane, the bird singing to the rising sun; Eiao, the rising sun. (Another version in Greg Dening's "Islands and Beaches": "Their god Atea built a house. Nukuhiva was its pointed roof, Ua Pou its support posts, Ua Huka its binding, Hiva Oa its ridge pole, Fatuiva its thatching, Tahuata the celebration of its completion" (13-14).

Departing from Atuona, August 14, 1999, 9 a.m.

Reports and Photos: Hiva Oa to Mangareva via Pitcairn, August 14- 1999

Leaving the Marquesas:August 14. From the journal of Moana Doi

Report: August 15, 1999. From the journal of Captain Chad Baybayan. On His Birthday, August 15.; Photo: Chad with his Birthday Cake.

Reports: August 16, 1999 / August 17, 1999 / August 18, 1999 / August 19, 1999 / August 20, 1999 / August 21, 1999 / August 22, 1999 / August 23, 1999

Photos (by crew member Nalani Wilson)

Mona Shintani working on a carving.

Gary Suzuki and Mel Paoa motoring out to Hokule'a in Kamahele's dingy (Nukuhiva)..

First aku caught. That's Aldon holding the fish.

Gary Yuen Slicing Up the Mahimahi.

Tava Drying the Aku and Mahimahi.

Tava and Kealoha Husking a Coconut with a Stick.

Gary Cooking.

Tava and Mel Relaxing.

Kaniela Reading.

Booby Bird Accompanies the canoe. One of the only visitors on the open ocean.

The Mid-Morning Watch.

Crew member Mona Shintani relaxes with a ukulele.

Report: August 24, 1999; Sighted and landed on Pitcairn; Photo: Sailing for Pitcairn.

Report: August 25, 1999. From the journal of Moana Doi: Sighting Pitcairn; Landing; Homestay

Photos of Pitcairn by crew member Moana Doi

Pitcairn Arrival: Hokule'a was towed into Bounty Bay by Kama Hele.

The dock at Bounty Bay.

Adamstown, Pitcairn Island.

The Boathouse on Pitcairn.

Tim Gilliom with 'Ahi. Tim caught eleven 'ahi (yellow-fin tuna) and one big ono (wahoo) in two hours of hand-line fishing off Pitcairn...the fish was for a lu'au that the crew prepared for the 42 inhabitants (1999 census) of the island.

Report: August 26, 1999; Crew Activities on Pitcairn.

Report: August 27, 1999; Gary Suzuki

Report: August 28, 1999; Sighting Temoe (an atoll near Mangareva.)

Report: August 29, 1999; Arrival in Mangareva

Photos of Mangareva by crew member Moana Doi

Mangareva: Hokule'a approached Mangareva under a bright moon (La'aukukahi, 18 days old).

On Mount Duff, Mangareva The crew hiked up to the highest point on Mangareva..the peak of Mount Duff (1447 feet).

Rikitea, the main town on Mangareva, beneath Mount Duff.

Captain/Navigator for Leg 2: Chad Baybayan (Hawai'i; Bio; Photo; Apprentice Navigator--Moana Doi (O'ahu; Bio; Photo: Leaving for Mangareva / Honolulu Airport / July 17, 1999); Apprentice Navigator--Catherine Fuller (O'ahu; Bio; Photo: Leaving for Mangareva / Honolulu Aiport / July 17, 1999); Student Navigator--Aldon Kim (O'ahu; Photo: Leaving for Mangareva / Honolulu Aiport / July 24, 1999. Aldon is on the left; Nainoa Thompson on the right.) Crew members: Watch Captains Terry Hee (O'ahu), Mel Paoa (Moloka'i), and Tava Taupu (Nukuhiva / Hawai'i); Kaniela Akaka, Protocol Officer (Hawai'i); Tim Gilliom (Maui); Kealoha Hoe (O'ahu); Aeronwy Polo (Hawai'i); Mona Shintani (Ni'ihau); Gary Suzuki (Lana'i); Nalani Wilson (O'ahu); Gary Yuen (O'ahu). PVS Education Coordinator Dennis Kawaharada (O'ahu) and video cameraman Hugh Gentry joined the crew of Hokule'a for the Marquesas interisland sails. Kama Hele (Escort Vessel) Crew: Captain Alex Jakubenko (O'ahu); Elsa Jakubenko (O'ahu); Sean McKeever (Maui); Russell Amimoto (O'ahu), Atwood Makanani (Kaua'i); Kamaki Worthington (O'ahu).