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Prince Rupert, British Columbia / June 23,1995 Photo Below: Native Drummers at Bellabella, B.C.; Ross Dennis Hunt Joins In
"Do you believe in eagle feathers?"an old Haisla asks Captain Bruce Blankenfeld. " Uh, we don't have eagles in Hawai'i, but I believe in the symbolism of the eagle for your people." The old man, a former alcoholic, leaves and returns a short time later with a fan-like ceremonial piece made from seven eagle feathers. The handle is adorned with beautiful beadwork done by his wife. He presents it to Bruce. "It's been blessed by a medicine man. Bring it out when you need good luck on your voyage," he explains quietly. Off to the side a carver from Haida Gwaii (Queen Charlotte's Island) is showing crew member Ka'au McKenney drawings of traditional crest designs. There are over 700 crests among the Haida, some, like the hummingbird, can be used by anyone; others are owned by particular families. The carver pulls a mask out of his backpack. A raven man, adorned with human hair. Then a rattle. He brings out his tools, demonstrates how to use one of them on the back of the mask, and gives the tool to Ka'au. Traditional gifting and sharing are alive in the native communities of the Northwest. The crew has received gifts of traditional foods (salmon, halibut, and a bag of dried seaweed that tastes like nori), it has received caps, t-shirts, towels, and pendants; it has received money. It's an insult to refuse. The crew has tried to reciprocate with "Hawai'iloa" t-shirts, caps, and sweaters; and visitors are invited to tour the canoe. But there's no way to repay the hospitality and the sharing. You say thank you and feel indebted. There is a friendly competition in giving among the tribes. When Christine Hunt of the Kwakuitl, who has organized the British Columbia tour of "Hawai'iloa", was told about the generosity of the Heiltsuk in Bella Bella, she laughed, "The Heiltsuk have out done us again." The warmth of the people and the richness of the land has more than overcome the cold NW wind and the SW squalls. Hauoli Smith, a "Hawai'iloa" crewmember who recently competed for America's Cup with the Women's Team shared her feelings at a crew talk-story session." I haven't laughed so much in a long time."The family feeling among the crew and the hospitality of the hosts have lightened her spirits after the intense, grueling competition to win the right to defend the Cup in San Diego. "I've been waiting for one big revelation on this journey, something like thunder, but it hasn't come. It's subtler. It's a series of small unforgettable moments." After Smith performed a hula at Bella Bella, accompanied by Kamehameha School teacher Brad Cooper on ipu, a fan club of pre-teen girls formed around her and stayed with her for the rest of the evening, explaining the traditional dances to her. An old woman gave her an engraved silver bracelet. Saturday, June 24, the Tsimshian Tribal Council of Prince Rupert along with Tsimshian, Nisga'a, and Haida dancers--have planned a belated welcome and farewell potlatch for the canoe and crew. That afternoon, "Hawai'iloa" will leave for Ketchikan, Alaska, the largest native community in the area of Southeast Alaska, from which the trees for the hulls of the canoe came--hence, the canoe's first home. |
It's 8 p.m. and the sky over Prince Rupert is still as bright as early afternoon. This city where "Hawai'iloa" arrived on June 21 is the last stop in Canada before the canoe crosses into Alaska. The crew has gathered on the deck for an informal meeting and a late dinner. Visitors to the canoe are still dropping by.