Photos from the Voyage to Rapa Nui
Marquesan Interlude
Taiohae, Nukuhiva / July 26-August 2, 1999
(See reports for 07/31/99 and 08/02/99)
Marquesan Schoolchildren Welcomed the Crew to the Marquesas with a Song (July 26, 1999).
Taiohae Bay from the Heights of Mouake Looking South (July 26, 1999). A kuku (native pigeon) flies across the scene. Hokule'a is anchored near shore on the western side of the bay.
Mona, Moana, and Kaniela Kanikapila (Making Music) at the Nuku a Hoe Canoe Club House, Taiohae.
Kealoha (R), Gary Y., Russell, Gary S., Sean (kneeling), Kaniela and Cat Celebrating Gary S.'s Birthday at the Nuku a Hoe Canoe Club House.
Gary Y. Mona, and Mel Building a Better Toilet.
Gary Yuen Takes It on The Chest from a Tatoo Artist.
Russell, Maka, Aldon, Mona, and Desmon Testing the Kalua Pig. The crew dug an imu and prepared the pig for a pa'ina to thank the community for its support of the crew.
The Pig Before Entering the Imu; the Paddler is from Nuku a Hoe canoe club. The Marquesan pig demi-god Makaiaanui is said to have sacrificed himself for the people during a time of no food. This story of Makaiaanui was told to us on Ua Pou. (See report for 08/04/99.) A text of this legend can be found in "Von den Steinem's Marquesan Myths"--the story of Akaui (pp. 32-35).
Maka Carving a Stone Pestle on the Beach at Taiohae. He presented the pestle as a gift to Nuku a Hoe for hosting the crews of Hokule'a and Kamahele.
Tava Taupu led the crew on a tour of his ancestor Pakoko's tohua (dance plaza) in the hills above Taiohae. Below him is the stream where Pakoko threw down the bodies of slain French Sailors. He was executed by a French firing squad in 1845 for having allegedly ordered the killing. The family in Taiohae still remember his execution with bitterness. When thunder rolls, they believe it is a sign that Pakoko is returning.
Haka Hau, Ua Pou / August 3, 1999
(See report for 08/04/99)
Stone Pillars of Ua Pou. The name of the island means "Pillars" or "Posts," i.e. posts used to put up a house. The central peak, usually clouded, is called Te-Ava.
The Dancers of Ua Pou Greeted Hokule'a at the Dock.
Alex and Elsa, Kamahele Captain and Crew, in Haka Hau, Ua Pou.
Petrano Toti, leader of the dance group of Ua Pou, gave the crew a tour of his home island.
Petrano cutting down some cooking bananas at his family plantation in the hills above Haka Moui, The Valley of the Chiefs. The bananas grow straight up, at the top of the plant. Petrano gave the bananas to the crew.
The large paepae (stone foundation and floor of a traditional Marquesan House) of Te-iki-tai-uao, chief of the Ati Papa tribe of Haka Moui, who secured control of the whole island of Ua Pou. After his death in 1860, the valley was kapu, for the chief was thought to be a god...no one lived there for a century.
Hane, Ua Huka / August 4, 1999
(See reports for 08/04/99 and 08/06/99)
Hokule'a and Kamahele Anchored in Hane, Ua Huka.
Kealoha Hoe Assists Protocol Officer Kaniela Akaka with his Kihei.
Cat, Aero, and Tim at the Steering Sweep.
Tahuata / August 5 & 6, 1999
(See reports for 08/06/99 and 08/08/99)
Sailing for Tahuata, Near Sunset; Ua Pou on the Horizon. The ki'i kane (male god) on the starboard side of Hokule'a.
Documentor Nalani Wilson Goes Over the Operation of the Video Camera with Camera Man Hugh Gentry.
"The Best Meal Yet," said crewmember Kealoha Hoe after the crew's visit to Hapatoni, along the coast of Tahuata south of Vaitahu. "It was all from the land and sea--fruits and fish." The food was served on leaves.
The Pu Sound--Kaniela and Kealoha Call Out the People of Hapatoni.
Tava Bids Farewell to the People of Hapatoni.
Hanavave, Fatu Hiva / August 7, 1999
(See report for 08/08/99)
Captain/Navigator Chad Baybayan, Sailing for Fatu Hiva.
Hokule'a Beneath the Cliffs of Hanavave, Fatu Hiva.
The Women of Hanavave Preparing Their Dance Ornaments.
Petroglyph, Hanavave, Fatu Hiva.
Vai-Ee waterfall at the Back of Valley of Hanavave: The crew visited this waterfall and some of the brave practiced lele kawa (cliff jumping) from a ledge 40 feet above the pool. They saw a freshwater eel swimming in the pool. (The children who came with us kept shouting, "There's an eel in the pool!") A legend tells of Koee-iti ("small eel"), who lives under this waterfall, which feeds the large clear stream called Uiha that empties into the bay. Various versions of this legend can be found in "Von den Steinen's Marquesan Myths" (1-5).
Tava in a Headdress of Leaves. Tava picked the leaves in the valley of Hanavave, where he found the remains of ancient paepae. The leaves on the back of the Headdress are 'awa.
Hokule'a Anchored in Hanavave Within Swimming Distance from Shore.
The Children of Hanavave Hamming on Hokule'a. Note the Shaka Sign, A Result of Cultural Exchange!
Atuona, Hiva Oa / August 8-14, 1999
(See reports for 08/10/99, 08/12/99, and 08/13/99)
Cat Fuller, Leaving Fatu Hiva.
Squall Sweeping Over the islands of Terihi and Motane as Hokule'a sailed from Fatu Hiva to Hiva Oa.
Takaii ("Powerful Belt"), the Largest Stone Tiki in French Polynesia, at the Me'ae of Ipona, Puamau, Hiva Oa. (L to R): Robert O'Connor, whose family hosted the crew in Atuona; Bernard Heita'a, the mayor of Puamau; Tava Taupu. Human sacrifices at this me'ae were made to insure the growth of ulu, or breadfruit, the staple of Marquesan diet in traditional times. Periodic droughts during which the breadfuit failed to ripen brought famine to the Islands.
The Stone Used to Prepare Inks for Kakau (Tatoos); Ipona, Puamau. The base was oil of the kukui, which is called lama in the Marquesas where the oily nut was burned for light (cf. Hawaiian "lama": torch, light). Our host Robert O'Connor (right) demonstrates the tatooing technique.
Patrice Kaimuko, kumu of the Marquesan Dance Group Te Pua o Feani, leading the pig dance. He teaches to the youth of Atuona what he learned about Marquesan Dance from his mother.
Raita Gramont (right) and the female dancers of Te Pua o Feani. Raita teaches English and French at the local school and served as translator for the crew while we were in Atunoa. Raita told us a version of the Marquesan creation story, which Te Pua danced at their performance: The god Oatea and goddess Atanua built the islands as their house: Ua Pou was the posts; Nukuhiva the rafters, Hiva Oa the ridge pole; Fatu Hiva, the thatching; Tahuata, the fireplace; Ua Huka, the rubbish pit; Motane, the bird singing to the rising sun; Eiao, the rising sun. (Another version in Greg Dening's "Islands and Beaches": "Their god Atea built a house. Nukuhiva was its pointed roof, Ua Pou its support posts, Ua Huka its binding, Hiva Oa its ridge pole, Fatuiva its thatching, Tahuata the celebration of its completion" (13-14).
