Mangareva Today

by Dany T. Carlson

Population, 1996 census : 860 inhabitants on the main island, 3 on Taravai, 4 on Kamaka. Click here for map. The near-by atoll Marutea (Tuamotu Archipelago), counts 214 persons, all working for a private pearl-farm.

The state primary school on the island has three classes od kindergarden, with 76 children, and five classes of primary school with 124 students (1998-1999 figures). After primary school (10 to 11 years old), children move to Hao (Tuamotu) or to Tahiti to continue their studies. The Catholic Church operates a technical school (CED, "Center for Educational Development) for carpentry, mechanics, electricity, and mother-of-pearl shell engraving. The studies last three years. Fifty teens are enrolled, 12 from Mangareva and 38 from the Tuamotu Archipelago (Reao, Pukarua, Tatakoto, and Hao) (1998-1999 figures).

The main religion is Catholicism. (See Honoré Laval, missionary in Mangareva from 1834 to 1871, "Mangareva, l'histoire ancienne d'un peuple polynésien" published in 1938 by la Maison des Frères des Sacrés-Coeurs, 16 rue Damien, Braine-le-Comte, Belgique; and by La Librairie Oriental Paul Geuthner, 12 rue Vavin, Paris VI.) Everybody is Catholic, except one Protestant family at Rikitea and the family living on Kamaka. Saint-Michel Cathedral built at Marau Tangaroa site, Rikitea, is the biggest of all French Polynesia (48m long, 18m wide, 21 m high). Its altar is decorated with fine pearl oyster engravings. Last Friday, Feb. 5th, 1999, a young Mangareva man was ordained a Catholic priest here in Tahiti ; he is the first Mangarevan to become a priest. Many Mangarevans came from Mangareva, from New Caledonia, to join the ceremony.

Today's economy is based on mother-of-pearl culture. Pearl oysters grow faster in Mangareva than in the Tuamotu lagoons. Is it due to a cooler temperature and/or to a higher nutrients content. Mangareva black pearls are beautiful. There are 47 family-operated farms, most of them situated around Mangareva island. The biggest private farm of all French Polynesia, Tahiti Pearls owned by Robert Wan operates 3 farms, one at Taku (NE part of Mangareva), two at Aukena island. (See the Tahiti Perles web site.)

During the Atomic Testing era, Mangareva used to export fresh vegetables to Moururoa and Hao. Two families still grow a variety of vegetables that are partly sold on the island and partly exported to Hao. Flowers are also grown to decorate the cathedral.

Traditional culture survives in the braiding of natural fibers such as pandanus, coconut, opaero (rush) for hats ; tiny pink and yellow shells are also strung for neck and head leis. Breadfruit is still fermented and eaten as popoi by a few families.

Plastic containers replace the traditional earth pit. A huge ancient arii breadfruit pit, finely lined with volcanic rocks, remains near the cathedral at Marau Tangaroa.

Mangareva traditional dances are called pe'i: while the male and female group dances and chants in the back of the stage, a few actors play the story in the front. The recitative chants are very fascinating. The story rells about some oral history of Mangarevan pre-christian heroes or are inspired by biblical episodes.

Do you know how to say "Hello" in Mangarevian? "Kia purotu koe! " ["May you remain beautiful!"]

Aroha,

Dany T Carlson